Thought I'd kick this blog off with some reflections on the swell we had last month. Initially, I was pretty surprised (and sceptical) on the hype and expectations that surrounded it. On the charts it looked good but I'd never seen this amount of mainstream interest in a swell system.
After waiting a couple days for the initial pulse, the swell really kicked into gear on Friday the 26th, and didn't really let up for another 3 days. Looking back now, I'd say it didn't disappoint. Once it arrived, the waves got as large as I've ever seen and hung around for longer than usual. It seemed as though the swell had heaps of volume, with a lot of huge double & triple ups closing out the reef.
The highlight was the Saturday lunchtime session. A lot of guys went back to shore, which left only 3-4 tow teams out the back and a mellow crowd in the channel. I jumped in the water for a couple of hours and shot some angles I've always wanted to. Returning to the ski to get some water and food, the swell really kicked up a notch, and we got to witness some pretty insane waves and surfing.
As always, I gotta thank my friend Nic Barclay for being a legend behind the controls of his jetski and all the boys I went down with for charging so hard and generally being great company. Fingers crossed winter delivers a couple more big swells.